I walked through León, looking for the tallest thing in town. The cathedral rose above the buildings.

I went inside.

Yellow walls. White trim. Marble statues stood against the pillars. High above, the ceiling curved into murals and domes.

I walked through the pews and down the nave.

I was looking for stairs.

There weren’t any.

~

“Por favor.”

I turned.

A woman stood behind me holding an infant.

She pointed toward the roof, then pointed at me.

“Yo ayudo.”

She pointed at the baby.

“Leche.”

She tugged at my sleeve.

“Um … sure.”

She led me outside and around to the back of the cathedral.

She opened a hatch.

Behind her, a staircase climbed into the tower.

I started up.

She touched my camera.

“¿Fotografía?”

My fingers stayed on the strap. I felt the texture under them.

Then I handed it to her.

I climbed.

The stairs opened onto the roof.

I stepped carefully over the rounded sections where the domes rose beneath me.

Another traveler was already at the top, taking pictures from over the railings. I, too, climbed over and found a seat beneath the bell.

Cobblestone.

Houses.

Forest.

Sky.

Somewhere beyond León, a volcano rose from the trees.

I looked down.

“There!”

I found the woman by the colorful folds of her clothing, standing in the shadow of the cathedral. She held her infant in one arm and my camera in the other.

My eyes met hers.

I smiled.

~

“Leche.”

She handed me my camera. It felt solid in my hands.

Then her baby fussed against her chest.

“¿Por favor?”

She pointed down the street and started walking.

I followed her into the heat, over uneven cobblestones and past old villas with tall doors and flaking paint.

A soldier stood at the corner with a rifle.

First one.

Then another.

I kept my eyes down and kept walking.

She turned a corner, then disappeared into a doorway.

I followed.

The store was cool and dark.

I found the milk in a back refrigerator and carried it to the register.

“No.”

She took the milk and put it back.

Then she led me down another aisle.

Not milk.

Formula.

I looked at the price.

I checked my wallet.

And I put it back.

~

Outside, the cobblestone streets felt as hot as ever.